The former capital – very beautiful city-garden,lots of nice heaven-like places, mountains, and good people. I can’t promise they’re true hippy, but they look like hippy, behave like hippy and call themselves hippy, so if that’s what you’re looking for you’re welcome (well, you’re welcome anyway of course). Often you can see them singing in the streets or hiking.
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The best thing about Almaty is that the Kungey Alatau Mountains look like breasts rising above the city. But to avoid the acrid smog one must rent an upper-floor room in the highest building in town, the Hotel Kazakstan, which has a distinctly post-communist pastiche. While this allows one to avoid the acrid smog, it puts one at risk of burning to death in the higher floors, a fate the befell four workmen in May of 2001. If you are there in the winter, head for the hills. Ditto if you are there in the summer, spring or fall. While passing through and Allah willing, eat at the Venenzia Restaurant across from the opera hall.