Permanently Closed

No longer considered the bad neighborhood of Amsterdam, the Red Light District is filled with amazing treasures like Lana-Thai, on the Warmoesstraat. Located just a few minutes walk from Central Station, it’s now a pleasure to stroll through the narrow twisting alleyways which have been recently redone with all-new brick sidewalks and cobblestone streets. The lampposts in the area are all fixed up and brightly lit, and the throngs of happy tourists wandering around sure make this an interesting area to explore, for tourists and old-timers alike.

To celebrate a special occasion my friend and I sought out some authentic Thai food, spicy enough to burn a lingering summer cold right out of me. I wasn’t disappointed at all.

Entering Lana-Thai, you pass through a dining room with low tables and cushions, decorated in a rather decadent Oriental theme, and extravagantly comfortable-looking; although I prefer a chair with a back! In the restaurant’s mid-section there is a bar and service area, with several altars to Buddha, etc. Stairs lead below to a dining room, but the most-used room seems to be the dining area in the back, which opens up onto Amsterdam’s inner harbor, with a great view of the canal boats loading and unloading, and the Damrak, which leads from Central Station to the Dam Square.

The theme is again, opulent Oriental, with beautiful works of art, comfy chairs, and tables set with crystal and candles. My companion was bemused by the dozens of topless Thai beauties in the paintings on the wall. No doubt an immodest concession to the notorious activities of the Red Light District or perhaps Bangkok?

The menu is to say the least, quite extensive and filled with not just the usual Pad Thai and Red Curries. After going over the menu for what seemed like hours, we finally decided upon appetizers. I chose Kay Haw Baiteau (f 13.75), morsels of chicken cooked in bamboo leaves and presented on a plate of salad with vegetables cut into a delightfully decorative arrangement. After unwrapping the chicken, and dipping it into the spicy, sweet and salty sauce and popping it into my mouth I knew I was in Thai food heaven. We also ordered Yam Woon Sen (f 17.95), an amazing salad both warm and cold, with glass noodles, vegetables and Prawns. Absolutely delightful.

The soup was a difficult decision, with so many offerings, at what seemed to be high prices for small bowls of soup (ranging from f17 to f19 a bowl). We decided on the Potek (f 19.25), which was a great choice, being a mélange of seafood including Prawns, Scallops, and fish – in the best broth I’ve ever had – spicy to the max and flavored intensely with those traditional Thai offerings of galanga, lemon grass and fresh coriander leaves. When the top of my head starts sweating, I know it’s almost hot enough for a Thai person.

After these few tastes we were in awe, and wondering how they could top the appetizers and soup. I can’t remember how many times we’ve gone to a new place, had a great appetizer and mediocre soup followed by a dreadful main course! So imagine my surprise when the main course turned out to be even better than what we’d had so far!

I had ordered the Pla Saam Rod (f 37.75), and was amazed at the whole fried fish presented on a platter with decorative veggies, not quite swimming, but generously covered with another wonderful Thai sauce. My friend had the Gaeng Ped Koong (f 45.00), large Prawns in a Panang-style coconut-milk sauce curry with an assortment of Thai vegetables. A large bowl of freshly made jasmine rice filled the table with food. And what a feast it was!

The house red wine was a great accompaniment to the food (a carafe was f 17.50). However, charging f 3.50 apiece for glasses of tap water and putting it on the bill as Spa Rood is a disappointment. If you don’t smoke, be sure to tell the waitress to seat you in the section away from the smokers, or at one of the windows on the canal side for fresh air. A special toast to the Australian blokes who kindly put out their cigarettes after noticing our discomfort and dismay as well as inability to taste the delicious food! Would Dutch diners have favored us so?

Lana-Thai is a delightful restaurant, with good service and excellent food. A bit higher-priced than some others, but not unreasonable considering the quality of the food. And that’s the bottom line, excellent food and a wonderfully exotic ambiance.

Amsterdam
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