Filet of Sole Dieppoise

Filet of Sole Dieppoise

Visiting northern France is a pleasure, with many villages along the coast offering a variety of fresh seafood. The seaport of Dieppe, captured between high cliffs and the seashore was more of a resort in its heyday, but the fishermen still bring in a catch worthy of your attention, and the local cusine benefits greatly from this treat. Parisians would take the train here, then ferry over to England. The English used to come here to swim, now they have discovered warmer places like Spain… but that’s another story.

There has always been plenty of sole to catch in these waters, and one local offering is “Sole Dieppoise,” a tasty dish that also features another local favorite, mussels. Modern variations also feature shrimps and exotic mushrooms, but locals keep it simple with the sole and mussels swimming in a divine sauce. Here is my own variation of the classic seafood dish from Dieppe; easily made anywhere you can get some fresh filet of sole and mussels.

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Baguettes or French Bread

The classic bread is demystified. If you have the time, here is the secret recipe taught me by a friend. It is not truly authentic unless sourdough yeast is used, but here and there throughout the world, it is simpler and more expedient to use commercial baker’s yeast. I prefer the dried granulated stuff in a big bag, which is put in a sealed jar in the cooler after opening. Don’t rush this, unless you are making it for an audience. Even then, take some time to enjoy the experience. Pound that dough by hand!

Ingredients:

6 cups of sifted white flour
2 cups water
3 tablespoons yeast
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 egg white
1 tablespoon cold water

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Quiche Lorraine

Quiche became popular in the U.S. during the 1950’s. Consisting of mainly vegetarian ingredients, it acquired the “real men don’t eat quiche” label in the macho American society, only to blossom into widespread popularity during the later 20th century. Nowadays there are many kinds of quiche, from the original quiche Lorraine, to ones with all sorts of veggies including broccoli and mushrooms. Other ingredients popular in a quiche are ham and/or seafood (primarily shellfish). Serve a quiche at any meal, and almost anyone will enjoy it!

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Blue Cheese Onion Pie

Blue Cheese Onion Pie

Traditionally an onion pie would be made with crumbled bacon bits, and came from the Alsace region of France. My interpretation leaves out the bacon, and replaces that flavor with blue cheese. I prefer to use a bio, or organic cheese made in France. The quality of most ingredients in European foods is far superior to those in America, and you might consider using entirely organic ingredients to achieve the same flavor and satisfaction anywhere you are.

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Omelette Francais

The traditional French omelette is to be admired. Simple, filling, and tasty. Quick and easy to make by following the instructions, make sure you assemble ALL the ingredients, before you start cooking. Having the ingredients at room temperature makes for a fluffier finished product.

You can’t make a great omelette by rushing things out of the frig and dumping them into any old frying pan, you have to put it all together with a bit of care and respect for the food itself.

Of course the pan itself is an issue. A good omelette pan will allow you to slide the creation out and fold it at the same time, a pan with high sides requires a spatula. And a properly seasoned omelette pan is often any chef’s most prized possession.

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Champignon Poulet au Vin Blanc

Champigon Poulet au Vin Blanc

From the Alsace you can count on good wines, and fine food. My favourite of the moment is an easy one-dish meal that offers a homey complexity of flavours. The following recipe will serve four, and is nice to have with with crusty French bread and a bottle of crisply chilled white wine. Just remember that with all things French, freshness is the key to success.

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Jim Morrison’s Grave


Apparently Jim’s grave has been cleaned up now!

Jim Morrison’s grave is located in the Pere-Lachaise Cemetery in the east of Paris. The closest metro stop being Pere-Lachaise/Phillippe Auguste conveniently enough, it is east of the Bastille. Not recommended as a place to hang out and drop acid to commune with Morrison’s spirit, as the line of Gendarmes keeping vigil are never amused. Graffiti abounds, candle wax has dripped everywhere and it’s a really sad sight.

Manet & Velazquez:. The Spanish Manner in the Nineteenth Century

Now showing until January 5th, 2003 at the Musée d’Orsay

If you love art for the good old-fashioned pleasure of seeing paint beautifully applied to a canvas, then this is the show for you. The curatorial goal is to demonstrate the influence of 17thc Spanish artists—Velazquez, Goya and Zurburan—on 19thc French artists like Manet, Delacroix, and Courbet. But in order to make that convincing case, the curators also happened to assemble an extraordinarily gorgeous group of paintings. Half of these hail from what is referred to as the “Golden Age” of Spanish painting, and the other half from a time when the French avant-garde never looked better.

Some visitors to “Spanish Manner” may find that Baroque manner a bit heavy on the religion. But even a modern agnostic has to be moved by the Spanish masters’ sublime use of shadows and light. Manet certainly was; he considered Velazquez in particular to be “the painter of painters.” As you can see for yourself in the major collection of Manets assembled here, the Frenchman studied the subtleties of the Spaniard’s spare, dramatic effects quite closely.

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Montmartre Hostels and a warning

NOTE: This article was submitted by an unidentified reader. The opinions and viewpoint in this story are not necessarily those of the publisher’s.

Le Village Hostel, Heroin, and Street Crime
March 2002

We booked a room in a hostel at 20 rue d’Orsel, near rue d’Abbesses, with a view of the Sacre Coeur from the window. It was cheap, with peeling wallpaper and mixed-sex rooms, which I find annoying but well it was 17 euros a night, so we dealt with the minor stuff without complaint.

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Walk to Montmartre

Walk up the hill to Montmartre for a journey back in time.

One of the nicest little walks I took recently in Paris began on the tacky Rue de Clichy. If you want to ignore that scene, go up Rue Lepic towards Montmartre and you’ll find yourself in Parisian paradise just a block away from the madness of Pigalle and the Moulin Rouge.

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