Hotel Barbacan


Dorm style room accommodations and smaller rooms available.

In 25 years of travel, this is the worst hotel in which we’ve ever stayed. It was dirty, cramped, and in disarray. There is no elevator, our room was the size of a hamster cage, and the phone, one window, and one of the two naked bulb lamps were broken. The carpet was threadbare and stained, the sheets had holes, and our room overlooked an abandoned building, complete with debris, broken glass, and rotting vegetation. We fled after one horrendous night and felt like escaped POWs, except the Geneva Convention requires that POWs have more rights!

Don’t be fooled by the three-star rating or the "family hotel" hype. The only family this place evokes is the Adams Family. If the only room in the city is at Hotel Barbacan, you should fight the junkies for a park bench!

Art and Culture in the Jordaan

The Jordaan was build at the large expansion of Amsterdam in early 17th century, as a district for the working class and emigrants. The population increase during the next centuries was enormously, caused by the stream political refugees like protestant Fleming, Spanish and Portuguese Jews and French Huguenots who mainly settled in the Jordaan. It was a poor district with small houses and slums, every little room stuffed with families and lots of children. The entire area was one ghetto with open sewers, canals served for both transport and sewer, and no running water. Around 1900 there lived about 80 thousand people, nowadays about 20 thousand.

Rembrandt
The famous 17th century Dutch writer Joost van den Vondel and photographer Breitner lived in the Jordaan. Artists, like the painter Rembrandt van Rijn in his lesser successful period, also came living in the Jordaan because of the low rents. The house of Rembrandt was on the Rozengracht (Rose canal, still a real canal these days). His studio was on the Bloemgracht (Flower canal). The famous painter was buried in a poor mans grave in the Westerkerk (West church).

Monument Care
During the seventieth of the 20th century the city council had serious plans to mainly demolish big parts of the district and replace them for large ugly blocks of modern buildings. There where many protests against this idea. City protectors, such as Monument Care, where against the loss of the historical town and the people of the Jordaan feared for large rent increases. Thanks to this resistance the plan was modified, there came small-scale projects which would repair the neighborhood, without damaging its original character.
Strolling
A large renovation was started. By then the district was discovered by a new generation occupants: artists, students, and young entrepreneurs. The old inhabitants moved to other neighborhoods and cities like Almere. Partly by these new inhabitants the Jordaan has changed from a slum area to a district for artist, still living on low rent, and the rich who bought the very expensive renovated houses. Nowadays the Jordaan is compared to the rest of the town an oasis of peace with a labyrinth of narrow streets and little canals, nice for strolling around courtyards, art studios, and monumental buildings with stone tablets, old-fashioned ‘brown’ pubs, boutiques or galleries.

Markets
There are also some markets in this area. Saturdays you will find the Lindenmarkt (Lime market), a general market, on the Lindengracht (Lime canal) and a biological food market on the Noordermarkt (North market). Mondays you have a flea market at the Noordermarkt and a market on the Westerstraat (West street) with nice fabrics. On the Noordermarkt you can visit the Noorderkerk (North church), designed by Hendrick de Keyser in the 17th century.

Noorderkerk
Many people think that the Westerkerk (West church) on the Westermarkt is the main church of the Jordaan. It’s true that you can hear its carillon and see the beautiful Westertoren (West tower) everywhere in the neighborhood and that the Jordaanfestival is located on his square, but the church is actually located just outside the Jordaan. So the main church of the Jordaan is the Noorderkerk. The Noorderkerk was built in the northern part in 1620-1623 by Hendrick de Keyser and his son Pieter. The church is still in use as a Protestant church, and like the Westerkerk open to everyone, especially during concerts.

Art studios
Hundreds of artist discovered the Jordaan in the 70th because of the low rent of houses in these little streets. The lucky ones are renting a studio in one of these beautiful inner courtyards of the neighborhood. Every two years the artist organize a so called ‘open studio event’. During these days visitors can have a look in the ‘kitchens’ of the artist. There is also a permanent ornamental route called ‘Jewels in the Jordaan’. Past charming alleyways and picturesque canals it leads to gold- and silversmiths.

Courtyards
The Jordaan has a high concentration of hofjes (inner courtyards), beautiful yards with little houses, many of them with restored houses and peaceful gardens. These courtyards were build by rich people for older women; a kind of charity and protection. Beginning of the 70th most of these courtyards was in a very bad shape, like the rest of the neighborhood. After there restoration they were discovered by artist, students and still some older people with special privileges because of a church membership. Some of the courtyards are closed to the public, and only opened on special days called ‘open monuments days’. But if you do come across one of the entrances, and it is unlocked, most residents won’t mind if you sneak a quiet peek. During the summer some of these yards are opened on Sundays during free concerts called ‘hofjesconcerts’.

Stone tablets
Many houses in the Jordaan have a stone tablet, a stone sign that shows the profession or family sign of the inhabitants. For instance a butcher showed a pig and a tailor a pair of scissors, carved in a stone above the entry. During a walk it’s a pleasure to observe those beautiful, when renovated colorful, antique signs. The first stone tablets are made in the 16th century, when citizens were ordered to use these tablets instead of big wooden gables that obstructed the traffic in these narrow streets.
Museums
Most of the museums in the Jordaan are small. You have the Pianola museum with old mechanical pianos, a literature museum of Theo Thijssen, a houseboat museum, and a fluorescent museum called Electric Lady Land. Just on the boarder of the Jordaan you can find the Anne Frank House on the Prinsengracht (Prince canal).

Sugar Factory

Formerly the Amuse Theater, the Sugar Factory is located directly opposite the entrance to the Melkweg, at the Leidseplein in Amsterdam.

As with all Amsterdam venues, they claim to be all things for all people… featuring art exhibits, live musical performances, films, theater, and more.

Considering the location, right off the Leidseplein, this should become a popular venue for Amsterdammers and tourists alike. Especially if they offer quality entertainment.

Akhnaton

Perhaps Amsterdam’s oldest rave venue? The "Societas Studiosorum Catholicorum Amstelodamensis Akhnaton" was founded by Catholic Students in 1953!

Live music and DJ’s spinning Latin and African sounds keep the crowd dancing in this venue. This small place has several different floors and rooms from which you can enjoy the scene.

Super-chilled atmosphere is smoker-friendly and tolerant… just be nice to everyone else and you’ll have a great time with locals and tourists.

The scene starts at 11 PM and finishes when it’s time to go to work the next day. Akhnaton is conveniently located at Nieuwzijdes Kolk 25, halfway between the Dam Square and Central Station off the Nieuwzides Voorburgwal. There may be a small cover charge.

The Headshop

The Headshop, located at the intersection of the Kloveniersbughwal and the Oude Hoogstraat in the Red Light District is just one of many places in the area to buy smoking accessories. This colorful landmark was one of the first headshops in Amsterdam, in business since 1968.

Like most shops they sell the typical range of smoking paraphernalia like pipes, bongs, rolling papers, filters, graters, stash boxes, incense, etc. What sets the headshop apart is a very nice assortment of jewelry from around the world.

The shop was recently remodeled and painted. They own another shop across the street that sells clothing, with an emphasis on fashions made from hemp. You can also buy magic mushrooms here.

Info:
Address:
kloveniersburgwal 39
Amsterdam 1011 JW
Phone: 020 624-9061

Jewish Historical Museum

The Jewish Historical Museum was established 70 years ago, and from 1932 till 1987 it was housed in the medieval Weigh House, in the Nieuwmarkt. In 1987, the museum moved to the restored complex of synagogues at Jonas Daniël Meijerplein, just off the Waterlooplein.

Originally opemed as a single room, part of the Amsterdam Historical Museum, it has grown over the years despite the efforts of the Nazis.

When Germany invaded the Netherlands in May 1940, the Jewish Historical Museum closed its doors and tried to save the collection. Objects on loan were returned to their owners and the museum collection was transferred to the Stedelijk Museum. In 1943 the Germans claimed the museum’s objects as Jewish property, and was taken by the Nazis to Germany, and most was lost or destroyed.
 
Reopened in 1955, only a fifth of the original collection remained. New objects were added from public and private collections.
 
The museum hosts art displays and other cultural events geared towards Amsterdam’s Jewish population and visitors.

Stadsarchief Amsterdam

Stadsarchief Amsterdam is on the Amsteldijk upriver from the Carre theater, on the other side of the Amstel River.

This is where the official archives of the City of Amsterdam reside, and there are exhibits open to the public, with interpretations in Dutch, of course.

Info:
Stadsarchief Amsterdam is on the Amsteldijk at number 67, 1074 HZ Amsterdam.

Overseas Computers

The last time I moved back to Amsterdam, I went to a computer store to order a new computer (I only bring my hard drives with me). I was told it would be a two week wait for a new one to be built to my specs. After patiently waiting three weeks I was told it would be at least another week! You can imagine my frustration not having a computer for such a long time…

So I did what any former computer techie would do. I marched down to Overseas Computers, told them what I needed. They handed me the parts, I took them home in a taxi, and within ONE HOUR, I had my new computer up and running! Why did I wait? Not only did I get ONLY what I wanted, when I needed it, but they saved me some money, too.

Over the years I’ve been to Overseas Computers a number of times, and they usually have what I need, at a reasonable price. No B.S. Just pickup their current price sheet, or visit their website to see the savings.

While they might not have such a wide selection of ready to go computers and accessories as Media Markt, they certainly have better deals on loose parts. Also their staff is far more knowledgable than most salesmen in electronics stores. And from what I’ve seen, they’re pretty good about taking things back, unlike Media Markt (where you must PROVE to them the item doesn’t work!).

Saow Thai

Amsterdam’s Red Light District has many Thai restaurants, but none quite like Saow Thai. Like other Thai restaurants Saow Thai’s food is consistently good, well prepared, perfectly spiced and always accompanied by a beautiful presentation.

So what makes this Thai place different? Well the bar scene dominates more than half the place, with the few cramped dining tables stuffed in almost as an afterthought. And it’s quite a bar scene. The beautiful Thai women serving drinks (and dinner) are often not women at all but Thai men in drag. And they carry it off so well, this place will remind those who’ve been through the sexy bar scene in Bangkok of that steamy, sultry city.

The patrons of Saow Thai seem evenly divided by those seeking good Thai food, and those wanting to hang out at the bar. It’s really too bad this place isn’t a little bigger, as it takes a while to feel comfortable in their dining area.

Their beautiful and tasty culinary delights don’t come cheap either. As low key and unprententious as the place is, you don’t expect to pay these prices. Plan on 30 Euros per person plus drinks.

This reminds me of the time I was staying is some obscure Thai town way out in the countryside. It was around 9pm and I was just looking for dinner, and I passed by the most brightly lit shop in town. Surprisingly it was a very modern barber shop, and seeing how badly I needed a haircut, I went in. It occured to me how odd it was to have a barbershop open so late at night, but I reasoned this was some unique cultural obsession I’d yet to figure out.

I tried to explain how I wanted my haircut, but for some weird reason, the barber didn’t invite me to sit in the chair, and made no move to prepare me for a haircut. Instead he and another man kept pointing up a staircase, nodding their heads in that direction, apparently urging me to ascend. Since no one spoke English, it took me awhile to grasp what they were saying. For a moment I thought, oh, they must have another floor of barbers waiting to cut hair. But then I thought, wait a second, this is a small town in the middle of nowhere, why do they need a modern highrise barber shop?

The men called up the stairs, and soon a parade of beautiful scantily dressed Thai women came down. The reason they were so reluctant to cut my hair and encouraging me to go upstairs was the fact that the barbershop was just a front for a brothel. Once I figured that out, we all had a good laugh, and I continued my search for a restaurant…

That’s the kind of feeling I get at Saow Thai. Like there’s more going on here than meets the eye. Intriguing indeed!

I highly recommend you arrive early for dinner. The few tables (four I think) fill up fast. Or just hangout by the bar and wait patiently while the Asian transvestites ply you with mai tais. I can think of few things more exotic than that…

Info:
Address:
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 160
Amsterdam 1012 DW
Phone: 020 422-3023

Pizzeria Rimini

The Leidseplein area is famous for a wide range of entertainment and dining options. Most of the restaurants seem to be clones of each other, with little to differentiate the various ethnic places, especially the Italian ones.

Pizzeria Rimini is unique in that it offers pretty much the same fare as most other Italian eateries in the area, but boasts pizza and pasta dishes at about half the price of other restaurants. This was such an unusual claim, especially for Amsterdam, I had to give it a try.

I ordered a pizza funghi (with cheese & mushrooms) and I wasn’t disappointed. While it wasn’t the best pizza in the area, it equalled most others. It was huge covering the entire platter. The only faults I could find was perhaps just a little less of each ingredient. A little less cheese, fewer mushrooms (although there certainly was enough), and a slightly thinner crust.

All pizzas are priced at just 5 euros.

You’ll have to walk a bit farther to get the deal as the Rimini is at the edge of the restaurant district. No doubt that’s why they have the half price gimmick to get people to walk past a dozen other Italian restaurants along the way. It’s also very popular with young Dutch people looking to save a few Euros, so it might be crowed on weekends. If you’re looking for cheap eats around the Leidseplein, check out Rimini!